Palace and Protests

I set the clock so I could be at the Grand Palace for 9:00 AM. Bought an all day ferry pass which allows you to get on and off the ferry system until 9:30 PM. It was 150 BHT (less than $5 Cdn). Unfortunately, I didn't realize the Tourist Ferry doesn't even start running until 9:00 AM so by the time I got to the Palace it was around 9:30 and there were already thousands and thousands of people wandering around as it opened at 8:30 AM and closes at 3:30.

Entrance fee was 500 BHT which is pricey for Thai standards, but throughout Bangkok there are two pricing tiers: one for citizens of Thailand and then a much higher price for tourists. Same is true for the ferry system too. Tourists pay at least double what citizens pay.

Pictures will never do the Grand Palace justice. You really need to see it in person to appreciate just how significant an architectural piece it is. I can see why it is such a popular tourist destination.

Only a minuscule portion of the Grand Palace.

The Palace was first constructed in 1782 by King Rama 1 who decided to move the capital across the river from Thonburi. The Kings of the Chakri Dynasty resided there in its three main quarters. The now King of Thailand does not live on these Palace grounds but his main residence is not very far away and it is pointed out on the Bangkok map but it is private and you aren't allowed in the near vicinity of it.

Part of the Grand Palace.

This is the detail of how the buildings are decorated.

Part of the Grand Palace.

Paintings @ the Grand Palace.  

This doesn't do justice to the enormity of what you can see.  The paintings are vast, detailed and go on further than the eye can see.

Everyone conforming to the dress code (and bare foot).

The dress code at the Grand Palace is very strict. Females cannot have their knees showing; no bare midriffs, no short sleeves, no tight clothing. All the rules I read also said no flip-flops and no shoes that don't have a back strap and no open toed shoes allowed but they've obviously relaxed that rule because those were definitely present. For people who don't dress appropriately, you can rent clothing at the entrance. The clothing consists of loose cotton Thai pants which are popular with tourists, or sarongs.

It took about two hours to tour the Palace. I get back on the ferry with an intention to try to find Sampheng Market which I had read about in guidebooks. It's somewhere in the vicinity of Chinatown. The guidebook gave a general direction on how to find it but I wasn't sure if I was on the right path or not. I walked for about 10 minutes and voila! Well to say it was shear chaos would be an understatement. Sampheng Market is known for selling the cheapest wholesale goods in Bangkok. I don't spend much time here because I have a real uneasy feeling. It is massive, massive, massive. Again, the pathway is the width of a sidewalk but there are motorcycles trying to make their way down the sidewalk alongside the pedestrians and the motorcycles are laden with enough goods that could fill 1/2 the box of a small pickup truck. I'm just feeling uneasy about the situation and there is absolutely nothing in this market that I would want to purchase. Each shop specializes in a particular product: hair accessories; handbags; gift wrap; false eyelashes; umbrellas, earrings. There are also food stalls parked on the sides of the narrow sidewalk which is no wider than 8 feet wide. So with food stalls, some with hot burning fires cooking food, pedestrians, and motorcycles, I really need to find an exit out of this place.

Sampheng Market

Soon I spot a busy car-laden road that looks "normal". I see I am now in Chinatown. I don't want to be in Chinatown at all and just want to get out of the area but have no idea which direction I should be going to the ferry terminal. The Nancy Chandler map I am carrying has been a good guide but it doesn't detail every road or soi in Bangkok (how could it?). I had kind of thought about checking out the Bang Baat area to check out the handmade Monk's alms bowls. From looking at the map it appeared a taxi or tuk tuk was the only viable way to get there.... but it's sort of in the Chinatown vicinity. At some point I decided I wasn't going to go all the way to Bang Baat just to look at Monk's bowls but once I flagged down a tuk tuk it seemed like a good idea while I was in the close vicinity. The tuk tuk driver is an elderly gentleman who doesn't stop smiling at me from his rear view mirror. He has a photo of who I presume is his granddaughter hanging from the front window. He charges me only 100 BHT to take me to Bang Baat. It seemed like a bit of a ways as the ride probably took 15 minutes but it was in grid-locked traffic much of the time.

He drops me 1/2 block from the Monk's bowls place. Apparently there is now only one shop remaining that makes Monk's bowls by hand. The rest of them are mass produced. There are three people working at this outdoor shop with only a roof overtop. I stop and look and two of the men approach and haul out every bowl they have for sale. 

It takes two full days to pound a bowl into shape and I already know that in Thailand their work days are not a cushy 7 or 8 hours long. All the bowls they are selling are quite large, probably the size of a rather large salad bowl. They are relatively cheap though considering the labour that goes into making one of them, $1200 BHT. I don't know if I really want one as they aren't exactly what I was expecting. I was thinking of something 1/2 the size. But for less than $40 I decide I will buy one although I have no idea what I am going to do with it. But where else in this world am I ever going to have the opportunity to purchase a hand-made alms bowl? Nowhere! The only shops in this area appear to be woodworking shops: shutters, doors, fancy scroll work.

It's well over +30 C. and I'm standing on the street looking at the map trying to plan my next move and a tuk tuk pulls up. He wants 200 BHT to take me to the ferry terminal. I told him "no" and reduced it to 150 BHT. Fine as I just want to get out of this part of town and get back to the river where it's familiar territory.

I get on the ferry and take in the sights knowing full well I may never sail the Chao Phraya river again. What an enjoyable way to take in part of a city.

I land at Taksin Pier and get on the BTS train back to National Stadium which is the station closest to my hotel. I decide to walk in the opposite direction from my hotel because it's now 3:30 PM and I haven't eaten since breakfast. I am on the other side of the road from the MBK Centre and once again I find myself in a shopping mecca. I'm thinking that man, shopping must be a hobby for Thais because it just seems to be every single place your eyes can see. 

Siam Shopping Centre

I wander and wander and don't find any Western food at all with the exception of a restaurant purporting to be A&W.  I'm skeptical... I don't trust their beef nor their condiments.  I'll keep looking. I just can't stomach the thought of another Thai meal.

There were about 4 burgers on the menu I recognized and then the rest of the food was some Thai version of fast food I presume. I wasn't convinced an A&W burger would taste like it does back home so I keep on walking. 

The roads here do not have pedestrian crossing signals. In the area of the MBK Centre, you cross the road via overpass. I cross the overpass and find myself at Siam Centre. OMG! I have never in my life been in the likes of such high end shops: Prada, Jimmy Choo, Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci; Valentino; Hermes; Pucci; Dolce & Gabanna; Louis Vitton; Fendi; Armani; Burberry; Dior; Valentino and all the other places that you read about on the pages of Vogue. Oh my word... I never knew all these high end shops could exist in one location. By now, it's 5:30 and I still have not eaten since breakfast. Finally, I find a place that has pasta on its menu. I settle on spaghetti with pork meat sauce. It was good and was just over $6 Cdn. At least it filled the stomach.

It's time to head back towards my hotel from Siam Centre. I'm not really sure where I am but while I'm on an overpass I see the Mercure hotel sign off in the distance and I know that is just down the street from my guesthouse. I head in that direction and then WHAM I am smack dab in the midst of the Bangkok protesters. Oh my gawd! I wasn't scared but there were moments when I could feel my face tingling from the stress of finding myself in that situation. The protesters were only 1/2 block from my hotel and I thought I could cut through the train station but the platforms were jam-packed with protesters and I couldn't even move so I turned back and towards the usual staircase that I would take. OMG! 

I was clutching my purse to my chest. I have never in my life ever never been in such a large crowd of people. It was a peaceful protest. They were all wearing white shirts and holding burning candles. There were 10's of thousands of protesters of all ages, families, seniors... it was something to see. I couldn't help but think that here again is evidence that when citizens are passionate about their cause they will stand up for themselves unlike Canadians who like to b**** and complain but will very rarely ever take a stand to back up their b****ing and complaining. I admire all citizens who stand up for the issues they are passionate about. As I am trying to make my way down the staircase which is wall-to-wall people, I am following a news crew who is cutting a path. The people start singing John Lennon's "Imagine" and I record it. I am in awe that here I am on the other side of the world witnessing that famous song of Peace being sung so loudly. What an amazing thing to witness. I recorded it on my IPhone but the video ended up sideways. It was quite the sight with all the candles aglow. What normally is about a 5 minute walk took me 45 minutes to make my way through the crowd.

By now it's 8:00 PM and time for another 90 minute Thai massage at the place across the soi from my hotel.

I'm typing this at 8:15 PM on Saturday, January 10. No time to tell about about today as my taxi has been waiting for 45 minutes - but he's super early so he can darn well wait for me as my flight doesn't depart til 12:25 AM.

In any event, today entailed riding a fast boat down a canal, the best facial I've ever had in my life which entails a gold mask, and a pedicure at some sketchy place, Pizza cooked in an outdoor brick oven for dinner.

There are no tourist SIM cards in Japan so I may be out of touch unless I can get wifi.

I'll be in Tokyo at 8:00 AM - 12 hours from now.