I guess it's been 4 days now since I was at the other end of the
Island around the Bai Lan Bay Area. New Year's Eve was quite a raucous affair
in the area and fireworks were being let off starting around 9:00 PM carrying on
until 2014 came into being.
My
guest house, Lazy Republique got into the party spirit and I was awakened
before midnight by Madonna's "Holiday". The music continued loudly
until 1:30 AM... it was all good as the owner's musical tastes were right up my
alley.
On New
Year's Day, on the advice of Laun, my guesthouse owner, I walked about 1.5
miles up and down hills to the infamous "Lonely Beach". You know the
saying, "you never get a second chance to make a good first
impression". Well my first impression was "What a disgusting
dump"! I had turned in towards the
beach at Siam Huts. Perhaps this is how a backpacker hostel is defined? I don't
know, but I would definitely classify it as a dump. Had I checked in there, I
wouldn't even have gotten out of the taxi. The huts on stilts reminded me of
row housing. Very closed together, no privacy and garbage strewn about every
place I looked. I was surprised to see what had been a burning mound of garbage
right in front of a group of huts. Disgusting. (I've since come to realize that
everything here gets burnt eventually, plastic bottles included. Shocking in
this day and age coming from a first-world country). I wonder to myself that at
one time the owner must've had a vision of the type of property he wanted to
create. Was this his vision?
Siam Huts @ Lonely Beach
Laun
told me to go to the very far end of the beach. So glad he told me to do this
because my first impressions of Lonely Beach were not much better than my
impressions of the Siam Huts. I walked as far down the beach as was possible
(probably 10-15 minutes), and it was much nicer. The rentals on the beach
looked to be "upscale" and for the most part the beach wasn't
littered with garbage.
I spent 5 hours or so on Lonely Beach and had lunch at the closest beachside restaurant.
I could've taken a taxi back to my guesthouse but I was up for the exercise and wanted to stop in the little Lonely Beach enclave to buy some water and go to the Pharmacy to tend to my cold so I walked the 1.5 miles back to my guesthouse.
Lonely Beach
I spent 5 hours or so on Lonely Beach and had lunch at the closest beachside restaurant.
I could've taken a taxi back to my guesthouse but I was up for the exercise and wanted to stop in the little Lonely Beach enclave to buy some water and go to the Pharmacy to tend to my cold so I walked the 1.5 miles back to my guesthouse.
Lots of wild monkeys in this area. Scared the bajeezus out of me when I first saw one sitting on the road. Scared me so much that I crossed the road hoping all the while that he wouldn't try to jump on me. There were lots of monkeys on this particular part of Koh Chang (Bai Lan Bay area) so by the time I did the full walk I wasn't as fearful of them and stopped to take some photos of them from a safe distance.
There
really isn't much happening in the area of my guest house so I order dinner at
the guest house (fried fish that was very chewy and very spicy) with the
ever-present white rice.
Breakfasts
are included in my accommodation here. A hearty breakfast of tasty coffee,
orange juice (which I haven't been able to stomach as it is definitely not the
type I am used to), muesli with fresh fruit and yogurt and 2 pieces of toasted
french bread with jam, and then a plate of pineapple and watermelon. Thailand
seems to centre its life around food.
It's
time for me to check out now and head to the Klong Prao area of the island. I
have no clue which direction any place is on this island. I stand on the side
of the road and flag down a songathew. I show him the address and the name of
Baan Rim Nam (my next guesthouse). He says he can take me but he will only drop
me on the highway. I know it's a 1 mile walk into the guesthouse from the road
and I'm not keen on lugging my suitcase a mile on a mule trail. I convince him
to bring me all the way into the guesthouse -- he agrees - for a price! 200 BHT
but it was money well spent and he delivers me to the door. The road in here
from the highway isn't all that bad. It's mostly paved until the last 1/4 mile
which is sand, but I still wouldn't want to haul my luggage that far.
Baam Rim Nam is gorgeous. I can easily see why it is rated in the Top 10 of B&B's in all of Thailand.
No shoes/flip-flops allowed on the deck.
One of 2 decks at Baan Rim Nam.
I
decide I'm up for a walk into the village area for lunch and find one of Ian's
recommendations of a family-run restaurant. The place was packed and they were
turning people away at about 3:00 PM. I order a pineapple shake which was
absolutely delicious. Probably the tastiest fruit shake I've ever had. I order
my usual stand-by, cashew chicken and decide to try some spring rolls. It was
all very good. At the end of the meal they serve complimentary sliced
watermelon. The bill was just over $3.00. I stop in at the Pharmacy to buy some
pills called NAC 10 that a stranger had recommended to me when they heard me coughing. $9 for them but I'm getting quite fed up being sick by this point so am
happy to try anything if it'll work. It's a scorching hot walk back to my
guesthouse and I'm now having second thoughts about my bright idea of walking
into town and back in the mid-day heat. Lesson learned. I don't do much the
rest of the day except enjoy the lovely decks at Baan Rim Nam, and then I find
the trail to Klong Prao beach and check it out. The sunset is gorgeous.
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