Kai Bae Beach, Koh Chang, Thailand, December 31, 2013

The shuttle from Trat arrives on Koh Chang and within a minute we are chugging up a huge mountainous switchback behind a bunch of tourist vans. I can't believe the roads, thinking surely there could be no other road worse for hills and switchbacks than that between Pai to Mae Hong Son. I'm mistaken! Now I know why I had read that if you are not highly experienced riding a motorcycle or scooter, Koh Chang is not the island to attempt it. The road looked so smooth that when it rains it must be like a sheet of ice.

Can't fathom how it occurred. The road was completely straight. 

I have just learned that Cambodia is fairly close to Koh Chang. I had no clue. Koh Chang is the second largest of the dozens and dozens of Thai islands, but something like 80% of it is uninhabited jungle. The island is long and does not have "towns" per se, but rather these little enclaves of businesses clumped together along the roadside.

This is the Island where, last May, I could not find 10 nights accommodation in any one place. Now that I've been here for two days, I realize that I am now on the south end of the Island but will be moving to the north end for the last two accommodations. It'll be nice to be able to explore the island more in-depth by staying at opposite ends.

There is a problem checking in to my resort at 3:00 PM. The room is not ready. They offer to store my luggage while I head to the beach. It's only about a 5 min. walk to the beach. 

The first Thai beach I ever set eyes on in person.

Koh Chang, Thailand

I return at 5:00 and my room is still not ready. Seems the guest has been a problem for the past month he's been here and he won't check out. The receptionist says she may have to call the police on him and I reply that yes, she just may have to do that. I booked this room 8 months ago and know there will be no other place easily found on this island. Finally, they get him out. The room absolutely wreaks of cigarette smoke. I'm not happy but suck it up (pardon the pun).

I go in search of dinner at Da Riddem Shack which I had read about on Trip Advisor. It's a Reggae inspired joint that serves up Jerk chicken (and only jerk chicken). I find it about a 15 min. walk away from my resort. I chat up the owner David from England. He's had the business 2 years and is having a tough time making a go of it despite his excellent reviews on Trip Advisor. He told me that it cost him $150 BHT/day to run the business (that $4.50 Cdn), but says there are days he doesn't have a single customer. He is contemplating moving shop down to the north island Lonely Beach area where all the young backpackers hang out. I too think that would be much better clientele for him. I enjoy a couple of rum punch and jerk chicken and walk back to my resort. It's probably 9:00 PM or so but it's not at all scary walking these streets at night as night time seems to be a booming business and the streets are busy and food carts are still out.

Yesterday morning I complained about the stench of my room, how it's seeped into the pillows and it's disgusting. In the morning, I put the "do not disturb" sign on my door when I depart for the beach as I have not messed up the room, have not taken a shower, and there is nothing for the cleaner to do. Imagine my surprise when I return at 3:00 PM and they tell me they have cleaned my room. What? Thankful I had locked up my suitcase before I left and locked my IPad inside. But where the hell is my purse? Obviously I had taken my money, cards and passport with me in my daypack but still.... I look around... they have shoved it inside of a stinky cupboard. I had noticed pillows laid out on a table to air out. Well it seems while I was gone they took initiative and gave me new pillows, removed and washed my curtains (didn't even notice they were gone until they came by to hang them back up), and washed my floors. They had the room closed up tight so I still noticed the stench when opening the door. I left the door and window open until nightfall. Why anyone would smoke inside the room when every room has a lovely little deck with table, chairs and ashtray I have no clue. No offense Kate (my Russian co-worker), but 90% of the guests on this Island appear to be Russian and every single one of them smokes. I have a couple on each side of me both inhaling away every morning and every night. Argh!

Speaking of tourists, with what's been going on in Bangkok (I don't even know what's going on as I haven't followed any news in two weeks), apparently 35 countries put out a travel advisory (including Canada) and 65,000 tourists cancelled out and Thailand is really feeling the pinch. The few hours I spent in Bangkok the other night, I never sensed one iota of unrest.

I didn't notice it on my own but when I was sitting on my deck the first evening, I heard a big noise. What the heck? I went exploring. Right across the street from my resort is an elephant trekking company. I am going to do that this morning. It's 500 BHT ($15) for a one hour jungle trek. Cool! What's nice about this company is the allow tourists just to come by and hang out and watch the elephants. I watched the elephant keepers painting the elephants and that was interesting to see.

Nothing much is open around here too early. 8:00 AM seems to be the earliest opening time a single business which is packed at 8:30 when I show up for a coffee and croissant. It's a bakery with limited selection, they do a booming business in deli sandwiches it would appear. The place was packed and I had to sit inside due to the large patio being fully occupied already. The coffee in Thailand is always very tasty but strong. Most businesses appear to have an espresso machine. The croissant was as good as I've had anywhere. 

After 5 hours on the beach yesterday and one dip in the ocean (not as blue as the Caribbean but nicer than Mexico), I've had enough sun for my first day. There are hawkers on the beach but not nearly as many as Mexico. Perhaps six. They are not relentless, they barely approach you and if you don't make eye contact they don't approach at all. The women are hawking "designer" (knock off) purses. I pity them, each arm splayed out like a display rack with big bags hanging from them.

I walk in the direction of my resort and stop for a late lunch: cashew chicken on rice with a banana shake. Shakes are not made with ice cream but with coconut milk and ice. Then I overdo it (probably) and stop at a cart for a banana and fresh coconut roti. Yummo!

Two hours pass and my stomach starts to hurt. Now I'm laying on top of my hard-as-a-sheet of-cement bed with the door and window wide open. I lay there til it's dark then close everything up and don't even think about showering the salty ocean off of me and crawl into bed massaging my stomach trying to get those intestines doing their job. Finally, a few hours later I throw it all up and life is good again at 3:00 AM.

Today, I move to the north end of the island. Plan to do the elephant trek this morning before I leave this area.

The cold is still lingering on. Thankfully Fisherman's Friends seems to be the most popular cough drop in Thailand.

Happy New Year everyone!